Wednesday 15 July 2009

Beyond the mountains, above the Vikos Gorge




Now that the full stretch of the Egnatia highway is open all the way from Igoumenitsa to Ioannina, the bypass to the airport soon gets us to the turning off the Konitsa highway (easily identified by an iron bridge) up to the beautiful Cental Zagori villages and the Vikos Gorge

We bought an old stone house in one of the most beautiful villages back in 1983, but it had to be almost completely rebuilt six years ago. Just as well, perhaps, otherwise we wouldn’t have been able to install or enjoy a modern kitchen and bathroom.

It’s now a very comfortable, spacious house, with a lovely garden and a panoramic view over the mountains and part of the gorge.

We spend more time in Corfu than in Zagori, it’s true, partly because our post comes to Corfu, where we also rely on our broadband connection, partly because of friends, the swimming and easy access to the town; but if I ever fall sick, I hope we’re in the Zagori, not far from the excellent Ioannina University Hospital.

Even in July, I do not miss the sea. I’m happy working in the garden, reading a book under one of our many trees, plum, walnut, quince and apple, or under the giant plane tree in the village square. We’ve even created a small private ouzeri next to our sterna (cistern) under the stone arches inside the gated yard.

I always mean to get some writing done when in the Zagori, but I’m far too happy pottering about in the garden, planting cherry trees, watering the flowers and vegetables or creating yet another shady bower or stone-built, if roofless, belvedere where I can sit and read and admire the view.

It’s a perfect hideway where I don’t ever get the Corfu blues! It’s a joy just to sit and listen to the nightingales singing, to watch the swallows on the telephone wires or hatching their young in the nests they’ve built inside our courtyard. It’s very seldom that one hears any noise other than birdsong or the distant bells of a flock of sheep.

The more we come here, the harder it is to tear ourselves away.